by Alexandra Wigreiser a Russian journalist in Mariupol The term ‘a return to peace’ may be a cliché, but it's the simplest way of putting things. Back in April, when it became quieter in Mariupol, the first sign of something approaching normality was the emergence of traders and money changers. Humanitarian aid had already come in, and people were selling unnecessary things to cover their essentials. Soon, the market opened, and products began to be imported. At the end of that month, lilacs bloomed. A week later, young men had broken off all the branches within reach, for bouquets. Their smiling girlfriends accepted the flowers and took their beaus by the arm. Every day, there were more and more couples like this strolling between ruined buildings amidst the sound of explosions. When water became more available, the girls washed and let down their hair, which they had previously hidden under shawls and hats. Their clothes became cleaner, and then more stylish.